Saturday, July 4, 2015

La Bella Napoli

We made it to Bologna.  It's been as hot here as it is at home.  Bolognese cicadas are as punctual as they are anywhere and were all ready in full force when I woke up a little after 7.  I anticipate a day of slow walking, the pursuit of air conditioning and a much needed respite somewhere around 15:00.

Last night we had an early dinner at this most wonderful of restaurants. Since the heat was so oppressive, we tried to order lightly.  We had mussels, a nizzarda insalatone and N had a pizza.  Yes it was definitely worth the 12 month wait for a table.  Actually we didn't have to wait at all since we got there just as it opened for dinner.  


To be continued...ok we're back and we didn't even make it to 1500, just barely 1400.  Ugh.  It. Is. Hot.  Like being in a perpetual sauna.  But before I launch into today, I'll write a little bit about the pictures below from last night.

You are looking at the piazza maggiore.  So much happens here.  It's more complex than the pictures show.  This is just one corner where it is set up to show movies at starting at 21:45.  Last night we were too exhausted to stay.  And last year they showed a ghost story from the 70s that was super creepy: "La Casa dalle Finestre Che Ridono" the house of laughing windows.  Really, it was scary.  So scary we had to leave before we found out why the windows were so amused.  Anyway, tonight if we can stay awake they're showing 2001 a space odyssey.

After a walk through town we returned to the piazza and sat on the library steps, watched many very attractive, well coiffed people promenade to the sounds of a busking jazz quartet.  It was so relaxing...but we were all road weary from our trip and so we headed back to the apartment to shower and pass out.

A few words about piazze. I know I am going to sound pompous and ridiculous but I am willing to take that risk while I am light headed with heat exhaustion.  That is my excuse.  Here goes:

There's something about italian plazas that are so unlike ours, even our most friendly and well-intended public spaces at their best.  In Davis, we have the area at E street between 2nd and 3rd streets.  Ok I know there is no comparison, so I'll try Sacramento, which might be like...hmmm...maybe like the old K street mall or Cesar Chavez park or parts of Capitol Park.  Anyway, I think what I love so much about these open places is that they are so obviously intended for the people's sheer enjoyment, to simply stroll and spend some time in a grand beautiful place.  You don't have to be rich or religious or anything to be here.  I just love how the aesthetic is so kind.  It's not the exclusive right of anyone.  There is something so profoundly generous about that.  I wish we had that at home more.  I think the world would be a much happier place if beauty like this were more available free to everyone, always.  Ok done.  



I will write more about today, Saturday, the 4th of July (!) in the next post.  I have no pictures yet and I think you need and deserve some visuals to go with my blatherings.















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